Plastic glue is the most common gluetype used by modellers. Most modellers started out with the little tubes of thick glue that is supplied in model kits exclusively (which led to much fustration over spilled glue). The plastic glue comes in two types: a thick and a thin. The thin type is the most suitable glue for most modelling, except for extremely large pieces. Both types desolves the plastic, which is then welded together to form a very strong bond. The two types will be dealt with seperately.
The thick glues only real purpose today is, as stated above, for gluing very large seams, such as the body of a 1/16 Tiger, as the drying time is much longer with thick glue. I never use this glue except for places where minor cracks might occur, using the glue as putty. This is strictly because I am lazy, and because my thick glue (Revell's) is not very harsh. Stronger glues may harm the model, so be carefull! Filler should be used in stead unless you know what you are doing. Applicatoin should not be done straight from the tube, or to much will be applied at a time. In stead, squeeze a small amount onto a ceramic tile, etc., and apply it from here with a stick of some sort.
The thin plastic glue is by far the most used for plastic modelling. It is possible to get two types of container; either with a needle or "just" in a glas. The needle type gives a very high control of how much glue is applied, and where. With just a light squeeze, it is possible to get out a small drop (which is all that should be applied at a time - to much glue will weaken the joint, as the plastic will remain soft longer, and the two part may not get in contact) on the model.
The glue in a glas is applied with a brush (don't use your finest Red Sable, though!) onto the surface. It is possible to get the glue of the same type of the needle container, which can then be applied faster to a large area (thus avoiding the glue to dry before connection). You can also get glue of an extremely strong and fast-drying type (such as Tenax X7). This glue dries within seconds, and is actually pure solvent (and should therefore be handeled with care).
It should not be applied until the two parts are held together, and then with a relatively thin brush (don't use a lot of glue - only as much as can be absorbed by the brush). The glue should then spread out over ½inch/1cm of the seam, welding them together (it will be very hard to get the parts apart afterwards, so be sure that the bond is straight - use scotch tape or rubberbands to hold the parts in place). Be sure not the hold your fingers to close to the bond, or your finger prints will show on the model.
As most glasses with plastic glue are very tall and slim, stick the bottle into some clay or playdoh to ensure that the glas does not tip over.
Cyanoacrylat glue is, as plastic glue, a very common glue type. It is possible to get the glue in thicknesses ranging from "gel" to "water". The thicker the glue, the longer the drying time. This can be an advantage, as complex bonds can then be made with thick glue, and small, delicate ones with the water type.
Prior to use, the a small amount of glue should be placed on a scrap piece of plastic, and the glue should then be applied with a piece of streched sprue.
The advantage of superglue is that very few materials are not bonded with it. Therefore, it can be used on resin, photoetched details, metals and most fabrics. Some surfaces, such as silicone, will be hard to deal with though. The thin glue can be used the same way as Tenax X7, and will bind equally good. As the glue dries quickly (the time can be shortened even more by the use of accelerators), be careful not to glue your fingers together. (Avoid getting it onto your skin at all - you may show some allergic reaction, although it should not do any harm in small amounts). This glue is also used in hospitals to glue wounds together, so it will glue your fingers together just fine.
White glue is mostly suitable to glue wood and paper. It will not give a very strong bond, and are of no effect on plastic and metal. It doesn't, however, dissolve anything (including your brain), as it is based on water. It is therefore, the only way to glue styrofoam, etc. together. I have seen good results of cyanoacrylate glue and white glue when mixed (it dries fast, binds good, and fills small gaps, and is therefore good on dioramas) - try it on something old or inexpensive first, though.
Epoxy glue is a two-component glue, which is blended imidiately prior to use. It is posisble to get 5-minute epoxy and "standard" epoxy. The first dries the fastest. The epoxy glue does not dissolve the plastic, but because it dries very fast, it can give good bonds. The glue can be shaped with water, just like clay, until dry (but is not based on water, so gloves should be used). The epoxy can also be used as filler, but only apply the needed amount, or you will be sanding forever once the epoxy is dry (it does not shrink, and the correct amount is therefore easy to determine). Epoxy glue is also suitable to make simple one-sided castings.
All contents written by Christian Ankerstjerne unless stated otherwise